The Hangang Cycle

Plan showing journey from Dongo bridge(red) westward towards the Hangang bridge which took about one hour

Our first explorations of Seoul began with a bicycle ride from Oksu, along the Hangang river. Beneath the thick layers of elevated infrastructure that trace the banks of river we discovered a remarkable space that continues all the way along the river’s edge. The recent ‘Han Renaissance project’ has subtly transformed these vast under crofts into quietly majestic spaces with very simple but robust alterations. Cycle lanes have been marked out, as have tracks for fast walkers (a recreation taken very seriously here). Wildflower beds, reeds and grasses have been placed in areas, as have outdoor green gyms. All these facilities are well used, respected and enjoyed by the population, particularly by the elderly. The ‘underbelly’ of Seoul was transformed into a convincing backdrop for the horror movie ‘The Host’. However this revival has seemed to remove all threatening elements from such a space without resorting to over sanitising or filling every nook with retail and cafes(as would likely occur in the UK).

 Throughout the cycle ride, the bridges and raised tracks framed views of the solid wall of apatu across the river, on the South side. It became apparent that the apatu are another element of the infrastructure of Seoul, contributing to the very utilitarian character of the city as a whole. Clearly attitudes are changing towards these relics of the era of industrialisation (illustrated by projects such as the Han Renaissance and the uncovering of the Cheonggycheon Stream) but will there be a similar shift in culture with regards to the nature of the equally dominant apatu?